Programa de Pós-Graduação em Ciências Farmacêuticas
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Doctoral Thesis Produto cosmético sólido com Prosopis juliflora: avaliação da segurança, desenvolvimento de formulações e estudo da eficácia hidratante e anti-rugas(2019-07-31) Damasceno, Gabriel Azevedo de Brito; Ferrari, Márcio; Giordani, Raquel Brandt; ; ; ; Lima, Adley Antonini Neves de; ; Ostrosky, Elissa Arantes; ; Gamboa, Ian Castro; ; Velasco, Maria Valéria Robles;Prosopis juliflora (PJ) is an invasive plant of Brazilian Caatinga and presents compounds in its metabolic composition of interest in cosmetic products. This work aims the development of cosmetic formulations in the form of a solid core containing PJ extract that upon contact with water will form instantly a gel for single dose use. It also aims the in vitro and in vivo safety study of the extracts and the moisturizing and anti-wrinkle activities clinical efficacy. The samples were purified by centrifugal ultrafiltration and gel filtration chromatography, followed by acid hydrolysis and analysis of the monosaccharide composition by paper chromatography and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR). The fraction smaller than 3kDa was evaluated by liquid chromatography mass spectrometry (LC-MS) while the fraction greater than 3kDa by NMR. The total fraction was analyzed by an integrated NMR platform. The in vitro antioxidant activity was evaluated using different methodologies. In vitro safety assessment was performed using cytotoxicity and phototoxicity tests using colorimetric method and neutral red and MTT as vital corants. The in vivo safety evaluation was performed through the cutaneous compatibility test. A preformulation step was performed and the most suitable technique of obtaining the formulations was chosen, which were then submitted to a 90 days stability study. Finally, for the clinical evaluation of moisturizing and anti-wrinkle efficacy, the water content of the stratum corneum and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were measured before and 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 hours after application. These parameters and skin micro relief were evaluated after 30 days of daily use of the formulations. The experimental design revealed that the best extractive conditions were at 34ºC / 3,5h (PJ2). The fraction greater than 3KDa (PJ2) was characterized as an α-glucan and the fraction smaller than 3kDa presented phenolic compounds, some of which are unpublished for the species, and alkaloids. These results agree with those obtained by the integrated NMR network for the total fraction. The samples did not present cytotoxic and phototoxic effects at the concentrations tested, nor did any volunteers present cutaneous reactions. These results are an indication of safety of the raw material. In vitro antioxidant activity evaluations demonstrated the potential of PJ2 acts in different stages of the oxidative cascade. Eight formulations were delineated in the preformulation stage and three methods of obtaining the solid cores were evaluated: direct compression, molding and compression of granules obtained by wet granulation. The latter allowed the incorporation of an emollient phase in the formulation and proved to be the most suitable method to obtain the stable solid cores. After the clinical efficacy tests, it was possible to observe that the formulation added with PJ2 increased the water content of the skin within 5h after the application. In the long-term tests, there was an improvement of the water content, reduction of TEWL and improvement in the parameters of cutaneous relief. Thus, evidencing the applicability of this new form and cosmetic raw material as a moisturizing and anti-aging agent.Master Thesis Obtenção de extratos da Opuntia fícus-indica L. Mill e suas aplicações em formulações cosméticas: avaliação in vivo do sensorial e da eficácia hidratante(Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte, 2014-03-28) Damasceno, Gabriel Azevedo de Brito; Ferrari, Márcio; Langassner, Silvana Maria Zucolotto; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/7390416147619446; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/5782539548696465; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/7785267108600430; Ostrosky, Elissa Arantes; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/8787499230023565; Silva, Vânia Rodrigues Leite e; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/0737387413540260Opuntia fícus - indica (L.) Mill is a cactacea presents in the Caatinga ecosystem and shows in its chemical c omposition flavonoids, galacturonic acid and sugars. Different hydroglicolic (EHG001 and EHG002) and hydroethanolic subsequently lyophilized (EHE001 and EHE002) extracts were developed. The EHE002 had his preliminary phytochemical composition investigated by thin layer chromatography (TLC) and we observed the predominance of flavonoids. Different formulations were prepared as emulsions with Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Hydrogenated Polydecene (and) Trideceth - 6 (Rapithix® A60), and Polyacrylamide (and) C13 - 14 I soparaffin (and) Laureth - 7 (Sepigel® 305), and gel with Sodium Polyacrylate (Rapithix® A100). The sensorial evaluation was conducted by check - all - that - apply method. There were no significant differences between the scores assigned to the formulations, howe ver, we noted a preference for those formulated with 1,5% of Rapithix® A100 and 3,0% of Sepigel® 305. These and the formulation with 3% Rapithix® A60 were tested for preliminary and accelerated stability. In accelerated stability study, samples were stored at different temperatures for 90 days. Organoleptic characteristics, the pH values and rheological behavior were assessed. T he emulsions formulated with 3,0% of Sepigel® 305 and 1,5% of Rapithix® A60 w ere stable with pseudoplastic and thixotropic behavior . The moisturizing clinical efficacy of the emulsions containing 3,0% of Sepigel® 305 containing 1 and 3% of EHG001 was performed using the capacitance method (Corneometer®) and transepidermal water lost – TEWL evaluation ( Tewameter®). The results showed t hat the formulation with 3% of EHG001 increased the skin moisturizing against the vehicle and the extractor solvent formulation after five hours. The formulations containing 1 and 3% of EHG001 increased skin barrier effect by reducing transepidermal water loss up to four hours after application.