Programa de Pós-Graduação em Ciências Farmacêuticas
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Doctoral Thesis Uso do resíduo industrial do sisal (Agave sisalana Perrine) em produtos cosméticos sustentáveis com atividades antioxidante e fotoprotetora(Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte, 2022-07-22) Daher, Cláudia Cecílio; Ferrari, Márcio; Giordani, Raquel Brandt; http://lattes.cnpq.br/5032750980466610; https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2425-7586; http://lattes.cnpq.br/5782539548696465; http://lattes.cnpq.br/5337129241199109; Assis, Cristiane Fernandes de; Verissimo, Lourena Mafra; Damasceno, Gabriel Azevedo de Brito; Rocha Filho, Pedro Alves daSisal is the main hard fiber produced in the world. In the chemical composition of the Agave sisalana residue, carbohydrates, saponins and phenolic compounds are found, which are used in the cosmetic industry with antioxidant and photoprotective activities. This work aimed to develop a multifunctional formulation with antioxidant and photoprotective activities from the industrial residue of A. sisalana. An ultrasonic extraction of the solid plant material was performed, varying the concentrations of the extracting agent (50% ethanol/water (v/v), 80% ethanol/water (v/v) and 100% ethanol). The extract with the highest yield was chemically characterized and evaluated for in vitro antioxidant activity. Ten photoprotective formulations were prepared varying the component concentrations and the shear time. The A. sisalana extract at a concentration of 1.0% was incorporated into the most stable formulations and their preliminary and accelerated stability was evaluated and the emulsions were investigated for safety. The photoprotective formulations containing or not the extract that were stable after 90 days, had their in vivo Sun Protection Factor, UVA Protection Factor, critical wavelength, and protection against visible and blue light determined. Ultrasound extraction using 50% ethanol/water (EH 50) as extractor vehicle showed the best yield. The extract exhibited a good concentration of phenolic compounds and showed in vitro antioxidant activity at different stages of the oxidative cascade. Emulsions without and with 1.0% A. sisalana extract remained stable for 90 days, presenting a desirable rheological behavior for a cosmetic for topical use: pseudoplastic and thixotropic. The emulsion containing A. sisalana extract proved to be safe after clinical studies. It was verified that the addition of the extract to the photoprotective formulation statistically increased the SPF when compared to the formulation without the extract with protection against UVA radiation, critical wavelength, absorption of visible and blue light and they fit in with the requirements of current legislation for sunscreens. In view of the results presented, the solid residue of A. sisalana can be indicated as a component of photoprotective and antioxidant cosmetic formulations.Master Thesis Utilização do subproduto do beneficiamento do sisal (Agave sisalana Perrine): desenvolvimento de nanoemulsões cosméticas e avaliação da segurança e eficácia(2017-03-31) Barreto, Stella Maria Andrade Gomes; Ferrari, Márcio; Giordani, Raquel Brandt; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/5032750980466610; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/5782539548696465; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/2234955265649411; Rocha, Hugo Alexandre de Oliveira; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/4651814546820796; Isaac, Vera Lúcia Borges; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/4842462513285606The processing of the leaves of Agave sisalana provides fiber, with added value for the sisal industry, and the rest of the plant material, known as by-product, is thrown and generates environmental impact. Different applications have been attributed, however, there are no scientific researches that aim to use this product as a cosmetic raw material. The objective of this research was to obtain and characterize polysaccharides-enriched fraction (FrE) from the Agave sisalana by-product of, assess the safety in vitro and in vivo, as well as to evaluate the antioxidant activity in vitro, and then to develop a nanoemulsion with moisturizer effect. From the liquid portion of the by-product obtained the crude extract (EB) and two fractions resulting from extractive process. The EB and the fractions were evaluated for the presence of sugars, proteins and polyphenols. Safety was evaluated by cytotoxicity and phototoxicity in vitro assays using the colorimetric method of Neutral Red. Irritability was evaluated by the primary contact test (patch test). The antioxidant capacity was assessed using the DPPH scavenging tests and molybdenum method. Different systems were obtained by means of pseduodiagrama ternary containing, or not, 0.5% FrE. The selected formulations were submitted to preliminary stability tests and accelerated in different temperatures conditions for a period of 90 days. The moisturizing efficacy was evaluated by water content of the stratum corneum and transepidermal water loss for a period of 5 hours. The samples presented as chemical constituents, sugars, polyphenols and proteins. The FrE showed no phototoxic potential or cytotoxic, and was not irritating to skin of volunteers and can be considered an asset with antioxidant property Nanoemulsion containing 40% oil phase, 50% aqueous phase and 10% surfactants was stable for 90 days.The nanoemulsion was able to significantly increase the water content and maintain skin barrier function after 5 hours from a single application. The fraction obtained from the industrial by-product of Agave sisalana demonstrated a promising profile as raw material for cosmetic skin care with moisturizing and antioxidant capacity, together with the possibility of adding value to industrial waste, reducing the damage caused to the environment by disposing of this material.