Programa de Pós-Graduação em Ciências Farmacêuticas
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Master Thesis Desenvolvimento de formulações cosméticas contendo o extrato de Prosopis juliflora e avaliação das atividades antioxidante e antitirosinase(Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte, 2023-11-24) Silva, Tássyo Leandro da; Ferrari, Márcio; Damasceno, Gabriel Azevedo de Brito; https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2425-7586; http://lattes.cnpq.br/5782539548696465; http://lattes.cnpq.br/3819354181697704; Amaral, Juliano Geraldo; Barreto, Stella Maria Andrade Gomes; https://orcid.org/0000-0001-7830-626X; http://lattes.cnpq.br/2234955265649411The rich biodiversity of plant species in Brazil enables studies for the development of products containing natural compounds. Prosopis juliflora, popularly known as mesquite, is a plant brought from Peru, widespread in the Brazilian Caatinga where it has become an invasive species. Studies report antimicrobial, antioxidant, antimalarial, and antitumor actions among others. Such activities are related to the presence of secondary metabolites such as alkaloids, terpenoids, tannins and flavonoids, present in different parts of this plant. Some of these metabolites can be used by the cosmetic industry as active ingredients for application in different activities. Therefore, this work aimed to evaluate the antioxidant and antityrosinase activity of P. juliflora fruit extract and develop cosmetic formulations containing this extract with the aim of harmonizing skin color. To this end, the extract obtained using previously standardized methodologies was evaluated for the concentration of phenolic compounds (0.21 ± 0.01 mg EAG/g) and total flavonoids (1.71 ± 0.26 µg EQ/mg). Furthermore, the extract under study was characterized using LC-MS-TOF. The in vitro safety of the extract was evaluated using cellular cytotoxicity tests and the samples did not show cytotoxic effects. The in vitro antioxidant activity was evaluated using different methodologies and demonstrated the ability to block the oxidation cascade in the initiation and propagation phases. The antityrosinase action was evaluated using enzymatic methodology and the extract showed an inhibition activity of 62.48 ± 2.09 at a concentration of 30.00 mg/mL. Formulations with Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexyl Glycerin, Distilled Water, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer Lecithin, Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 and 3.00% of the studied plant extract were subjected to preliminary and accelerated stability tests. The formulations were stable in accelerated stability tests after a period of 60 days. This research, in addition to contributing scientifically by demonstrating the use of a Caatinga plant in antioxidant cosmetic products and for homogenizing skin color, will also contribute to adding value to the P. juliflora production chain, giving value to aspects of Brazilian environmental, social and biodiversity responsibilities.Doctoral Thesis Produto cosmético sólido com Prosopis juliflora: avaliação da segurança, desenvolvimento de formulações e estudo da eficácia hidratante e anti-rugas(2019-07-31) Damasceno, Gabriel Azevedo de Brito; Ferrari, Márcio; Giordani, Raquel Brandt; ; ; ; Lima, Adley Antonini Neves de; ; Ostrosky, Elissa Arantes; ; Gamboa, Ian Castro; ; Velasco, Maria Valéria Robles;Prosopis juliflora (PJ) is an invasive plant of Brazilian Caatinga and presents compounds in its metabolic composition of interest in cosmetic products. This work aims the development of cosmetic formulations in the form of a solid core containing PJ extract that upon contact with water will form instantly a gel for single dose use. It also aims the in vitro and in vivo safety study of the extracts and the moisturizing and anti-wrinkle activities clinical efficacy. The samples were purified by centrifugal ultrafiltration and gel filtration chromatography, followed by acid hydrolysis and analysis of the monosaccharide composition by paper chromatography and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR). The fraction smaller than 3kDa was evaluated by liquid chromatography mass spectrometry (LC-MS) while the fraction greater than 3kDa by NMR. The total fraction was analyzed by an integrated NMR platform. The in vitro antioxidant activity was evaluated using different methodologies. In vitro safety assessment was performed using cytotoxicity and phototoxicity tests using colorimetric method and neutral red and MTT as vital corants. The in vivo safety evaluation was performed through the cutaneous compatibility test. A preformulation step was performed and the most suitable technique of obtaining the formulations was chosen, which were then submitted to a 90 days stability study. Finally, for the clinical evaluation of moisturizing and anti-wrinkle efficacy, the water content of the stratum corneum and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were measured before and 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 hours after application. These parameters and skin micro relief were evaluated after 30 days of daily use of the formulations. The experimental design revealed that the best extractive conditions were at 34ºC / 3,5h (PJ2). The fraction greater than 3KDa (PJ2) was characterized as an α-glucan and the fraction smaller than 3kDa presented phenolic compounds, some of which are unpublished for the species, and alkaloids. These results agree with those obtained by the integrated NMR network for the total fraction. The samples did not present cytotoxic and phototoxic effects at the concentrations tested, nor did any volunteers present cutaneous reactions. These results are an indication of safety of the raw material. In vitro antioxidant activity evaluations demonstrated the potential of PJ2 acts in different stages of the oxidative cascade. Eight formulations were delineated in the preformulation stage and three methods of obtaining the solid cores were evaluated: direct compression, molding and compression of granules obtained by wet granulation. The latter allowed the incorporation of an emollient phase in the formulation and proved to be the most suitable method to obtain the stable solid cores. After the clinical efficacy tests, it was possible to observe that the formulation added with PJ2 increased the water content of the skin within 5h after the application. In the long-term tests, there was an improvement of the water content, reduction of TEWL and improvement in the parameters of cutaneous relief. Thus, evidencing the applicability of this new form and cosmetic raw material as a moisturizing and anti-aging agent.