Programa de Pós-Graduação em Ciências Farmacêuticas
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Master Thesis Desenvolvimento de formulações cosméticas contendo sistema multicomponente com ácido ferúlico: caracterização e ensaios in vitro de liberação cutânea(Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte, 2025-09-18) Freire, Jamile Vitória Alves; Lima, Adley Antonini Neves de; Ostrosky, Elissa Arantes; Gomes, Ana Paula Barreto; Baby, André RolimThe cosmetic application of ferulic acid (FA) is limited due to its low solubility in aqueous medium and high susceptibility to oxidation. However, this phenolic compound is widely used because of its recognized antioxidant activity. To overcome these challenges, the multicomponent system Cicloferulic® (CF) was developed, containing FA, hydroxypropyl β-cyclodextrin (HP-β-CD), and polyvinylpyrrolidone K30 (PVP K30), using the kneading method. The system was characterized in terms of physicochemical aspects by DSC and TG/DTG, which showed greater thermal stability of CF compared to isolated FA. FTIR, SEM, and XRD analyses revealed molecular interactions suggesting the formation of the system and the transition from the crystalline to the amorphous state. In in vitro cytotoxicity tests using the human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT), FA was safe up to a concentration of 500 µg/mL, while CF maintained cell viability above 80% up to 10,000 µg/mL. The quantification of FA content incorporated into the system was performed by UPLC, showing high incorporation efficiency and a yield of 92%. In the antioxidant activity assay in HaCaT cells, FA and CF showed similar activity at low concentrations; however, at higher concentrations, FA exerted a pro-oxidant effect, while CF maintained high antioxidant potential. In the DPPH, ABTS, and CAT methods, CF showed higher antioxidant activity than isolated FA, but in cosmetic formulations such as gel and emulsion, the efficacy was reduced, possibly due to interactions of the complex with the aqueous vehicle. The presence of FA and CF increased the SPF of formulations containing organic UV filters, and the increase was observed similarly even in the formulation with a lower concentration of UV filters; however, the formulations did not remain photostable after irradiation. In in vitro skin release studies, formulations with isolated FA showed greater and faster release, whereas CF promoted slower and modified release, indicating that complexation of the active ingredient and the formulation modulate the availability and flux of FA. Cicloferulic® proved to be a promising strategy to improve the limitations of FA, offering safety, high antioxidant activity, increased SPF, and the possibility of modified release of the cosmetic active ingredient.Master Thesis Desenvolvimento de formulações cosméticas contendo o extrato de Prosopis juliflora e avaliação das atividades antioxidante e antitirosinase(Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte, 2023-11-24) Silva, Tássyo Leandro da; Ferrari, Márcio; Damasceno, Gabriel Azevedo de Brito; https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2425-7586; http://lattes.cnpq.br/5782539548696465; http://lattes.cnpq.br/3819354181697704; Amaral, Juliano Geraldo; Barreto, Stella Maria Andrade Gomes; https://orcid.org/0000-0001-7830-626X; http://lattes.cnpq.br/2234955265649411The rich biodiversity of plant species in Brazil enables studies for the development of products containing natural compounds. Prosopis juliflora, popularly known as mesquite, is a plant brought from Peru, widespread in the Brazilian Caatinga where it has become an invasive species. Studies report antimicrobial, antioxidant, antimalarial, and antitumor actions among others. Such activities are related to the presence of secondary metabolites such as alkaloids, terpenoids, tannins and flavonoids, present in different parts of this plant. Some of these metabolites can be used by the cosmetic industry as active ingredients for application in different activities. Therefore, this work aimed to evaluate the antioxidant and antityrosinase activity of P. juliflora fruit extract and develop cosmetic formulations containing this extract with the aim of harmonizing skin color. To this end, the extract obtained using previously standardized methodologies was evaluated for the concentration of phenolic compounds (0.21 ± 0.01 mg EAG/g) and total flavonoids (1.71 ± 0.26 µg EQ/mg). Furthermore, the extract under study was characterized using LC-MS-TOF. The in vitro safety of the extract was evaluated using cellular cytotoxicity tests and the samples did not show cytotoxic effects. The in vitro antioxidant activity was evaluated using different methodologies and demonstrated the ability to block the oxidation cascade in the initiation and propagation phases. The antityrosinase action was evaluated using enzymatic methodology and the extract showed an inhibition activity of 62.48 ± 2.09 at a concentration of 30.00 mg/mL. Formulations with Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexyl Glycerin, Distilled Water, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer Lecithin, Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 and 3.00% of the studied plant extract were subjected to preliminary and accelerated stability tests. The formulations were stable in accelerated stability tests after a period of 60 days. This research, in addition to contributing scientifically by demonstrating the use of a Caatinga plant in antioxidant cosmetic products and for homogenizing skin color, will also contribute to adding value to the P. juliflora production chain, giving value to aspects of Brazilian environmental, social and biodiversity responsibilities.Master Thesis Extração de compostos fenólicos do resíduo de caju (Anacardium occidentale L.) visando aplicação cosmética(Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte, 2023-07-31) Alves, Fábia Rafaella Silva; Lima, Adley Antonini Neves de; Sousa Junior, Francisco Canindé de; https://orcid.org/0000-0003-2042-4348; http://lattes.cnpq.br/3721560802857426; https://orcid.org/0000-0002-3798-3915; http://lattes.cnpq.br/4061809277935577; https://orcid.org/0000-0002-6634-7125; http://lattes.cnpq.br/4939875215993291; Padilha, Carlos Eduardo de Araújo; Xavier Júnior, Francisco HumbertoCashew apple bagasse (Anacardium occidentale L.) is an agroindustry by-product with a composition rich in cellulose, hemicellulose, and lignin. In addition, cashew apple bagasse (CAB) is an important source of phenolic compounds, which opens up possibilities for the generation of value-added products. In this context, the present work aimed to obtain an extract rich in phenolic compounds from CAB, using enzyme-assisted extraction as a sustainable method, for cosmetic application. The CAB was subjected to liquid hot water (LHW) and steam explosion (SE) pre-treatments, and characterized by FTIR, DRX, and lignocellulosic composition. Then, enzyme-assisted extraction (EAE) of pre-treated CAB was evaluated using a cellulolytic cocktail. The effects of enzyme load, solids load, and incubation time were investigated and optimized using a rotational central composite design (RCCD) 23. The extracts obtained were evaluated for their phenolic composition, in vitro antioxidant activity, cellular antioxidant activity, sugar content, and cytotoxicity. The results showed that the pre-treatments modified the structure of the residue, removing amorphous fractions, and making the material more accessible to enzymes. In addition, the pre-treatment by LHW associated with the enzymatic cocktail favored the greater release of phenolics from the lignocellulosic biomass (75,13 ± 3,5 mg GAE/L) and higher antioxidant activities, corresponding to 72.81% for the kidnapping of the radical DPPH and 241.04 ± 1.7 µM EQ Trolox/L for the kidnapping of the radical ABTS. The experimental design demonstrated that a longer incubation time (80 h) and solid load (8% and 10%, w/v) contributed to the increase in the content of phenolic compounds, obtaining, in the best condition, a phenolic concentration of 150.38 ± 10.0 mg GAE/L. Additionally, CAB extract showed antioxidant activity, evaluated by different mechanisms, with iron chelation ability, DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging presenting linear correlation with the concentration of solids. The extracts also showed cellular antioxidant activity, corresponding 36.03% of inhibition of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) for the extract obtained with 8% solids. These results are important indicators of a possible anti-aging application, opening perspectives for future formulations. Furthermore, the extract proved to be non-toxic, with cell viability greater than 95% in the MRC-5 fibroblast cell line. Therefore, enzymeassisted extraction of phenolic compounds from CAB proved to be viable and practicable. From a marketing point of view, this research contributes to the development of more efficient products and processes, environmentally sustainable, and optimizes the use of resources to obtain bioactive substances for the development of new cosmetic products.Doctoral Thesis Uso do resíduo industrial do sisal (Agave sisalana Perrine) em produtos cosméticos sustentáveis com atividades antioxidante e fotoprotetora(Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte, 2022-07-22) Daher, Cláudia Cecílio; Ferrari, Márcio; Giordani, Raquel Brandt; http://lattes.cnpq.br/5032750980466610; https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2425-7586; http://lattes.cnpq.br/5782539548696465; http://lattes.cnpq.br/5337129241199109; Assis, Cristiane Fernandes de; Verissimo, Lourena Mafra; Damasceno, Gabriel Azevedo de Brito; Rocha Filho, Pedro Alves daSisal is the main hard fiber produced in the world. In the chemical composition of the Agave sisalana residue, carbohydrates, saponins and phenolic compounds are found, which are used in the cosmetic industry with antioxidant and photoprotective activities. This work aimed to develop a multifunctional formulation with antioxidant and photoprotective activities from the industrial residue of A. sisalana. An ultrasonic extraction of the solid plant material was performed, varying the concentrations of the extracting agent (50% ethanol/water (v/v), 80% ethanol/water (v/v) and 100% ethanol). The extract with the highest yield was chemically characterized and evaluated for in vitro antioxidant activity. Ten photoprotective formulations were prepared varying the component concentrations and the shear time. The A. sisalana extract at a concentration of 1.0% was incorporated into the most stable formulations and their preliminary and accelerated stability was evaluated and the emulsions were investigated for safety. The photoprotective formulations containing or not the extract that were stable after 90 days, had their in vivo Sun Protection Factor, UVA Protection Factor, critical wavelength, and protection against visible and blue light determined. Ultrasound extraction using 50% ethanol/water (EH 50) as extractor vehicle showed the best yield. The extract exhibited a good concentration of phenolic compounds and showed in vitro antioxidant activity at different stages of the oxidative cascade. Emulsions without and with 1.0% A. sisalana extract remained stable for 90 days, presenting a desirable rheological behavior for a cosmetic for topical use: pseudoplastic and thixotropic. The emulsion containing A. sisalana extract proved to be safe after clinical studies. It was verified that the addition of the extract to the photoprotective formulation statistically increased the SPF when compared to the formulation without the extract with protection against UVA radiation, critical wavelength, absorption of visible and blue light and they fit in with the requirements of current legislation for sunscreens. In view of the results presented, the solid residue of A. sisalana can be indicated as a component of photoprotective and antioxidant cosmetic formulations.Doctoral Thesis Resíduo agroindustrial de Agave sisalana como um inovador insumo cosmético antioxidante: avaliação in vitro e in vivo(Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte, 2022-12-20) Barreto, Stella Maria Andrade Gomes; Ferrari, Márcio; Giordani, Raquel Brandt; http://lattes.cnpq.br/5032750980466610; https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2425-7586; http://lattes.cnpq.br/5782539548696465; https://orcid.org/0000-0001-7830-626X; http://lattes.cnpq.br/2234955265649411; Lima, Adley Antonini Neves de; https://orcid.org/0000-0002-3798-3915; http://lattes.cnpq.br/4061809277935577; Damasceno, Gabriel Azevedo de Brito; Tavares, Josean Fechine; Isaac, Vera Lucia BorgesAgave sisalana (sisal) is a plant extensively cultivated in the northeast region to obtain a hard fiber used to produce string and rope. However, only a small portion of the gross weight of sisal leaves is used, and the rest is discarded as residue. This residue has metabolites with potential antioxidant activity in its chemical constitution. In view of this, the objective of this work was, from the residue of A. sisalana, to obtain and characterize a hydroethanolic and a purified absorption, to evaluate the antioxidant potential in vitro and in vivo and to develop a nanoemulsion for carrier fractions to be applied as a cosmetic product antioxidant. From the residue, a recipe rich in polysaccharides (FRE) were received and, from the FRE, another recipe was through ultrafiltration dialysis (FREP). The qualitative composition was evaluated using liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (LC-MS). Both fractions were evaluated for their antioxidant activity in vitro, using different spectrophotometric techniques, culture medium and in vivo, using the Caenorhabditis elegans model. Furthermore, an experimental factorial design (2³+3PC) was designed to obtain a nanoemulsified system and its stability evaluated. FRE and FREP are mainly composed of terpenoids and O-glycosylated metabolites. FRE showed greater ability to directly inhibit DPPH and ABTS radicals, while FREP showed greater metal chelating activity (Cu2+ and Fe2+). The two fractions promote a protective effect against oxidative stress in 3T3 cells. In C. elegans models, FRE and FREP promoted intracellular reduction of ROS and increased survival representation. The expression of gst-4:GFP was positive for FRE whereas, for FREP, a reduction in expression was observed. The nanoemulsion consisting of 20% oil phase, 5% surfactants and 75% aqueous phase was considered stable for 90 days at different temperatures. The use of sisal residue as a new antioxidant input for the cosmetic industry can bring environmental benefits and contribute to the socioeconomic development of the region.Master Thesis Desenvolvimento de nanoemulsões contendo extrato hidroetanólico das folhas de Kalanchoe laciniata (L.) DC. e avaliação in vitro da atividade antioxidante(Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte, 2020-10-29) Araújo, Samara Vitória Ferreira de; Ferrari, Márcio; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/5782539548696465; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/5974296784809880; Damasceno, Gabriel Azevedo de Brito; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/7785267108600430; Fernandes, Julia Morais; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/8060189333626922Kalanchoe laciniata (L.) DC. species (Crassulaceae), popularly known as saião, is a small plant that is an easy cultivated plant that has in its chemical constitution metabolites that can be used in products to prevent the signs of skin aging. In cosmetics, the addition of plant active ingredients in nanoemulsified systems has received great prominence, due to the smaller droplet size, sensory and more pleasant physical aspect. Therefore, this work aimed to develop cosmetic nanoemulsions with antioxidant activity to prevent skin aging, using hydroethanolic extract of K. laciniata leaves. For this purpose, a hydroethanolic turboextraction with 50% ethanol (v/v) was carried out using fresh leaves in a 1: 1 ratio (plant:solvent) (w/v). The extract obtained was quantitatively characterized in relation to the concentration of phenolics and total flavonoids. The antioxidant in vitro potential of extract was evaluated using different antioxidant methodologies: 2,2-difenil-1-picrilhidrazil (DPPH) radical scavenging, 2,2′- Azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS˖+) radical scavenging, total antioxidant capacity, reducing power, superoxide radicals scavenging, Cu2+ and Fe2+ chelation and hydroxyl radicals scavening. Nanoemulsions were obtained form an experimental design (2³ + 3PC) by low and high energy emulsification methods, characterized by droplet size, polydispersity and zeta potential and then evaluated for their preliminary and accelerated stability under different storage conditions. The extract showed the presence of phenolic compounds, flavonoids and antioxidant activity. A cosmetic nanoemulsion stable for 90 days was obtained by the high energy process, containing 20% of emollient, 5.0% of surfactants, 1% of preservative, 0.5% of the Kalanchoe laciniata hydroethanolic extract, and 73.5% distilled water. Accordingly, we conclude that the extract acted in different stages of the oxidative cascade indicating the antioxidant potential of the hydroethanolic extract of Kalanchoe laciniata as a cosmetic raw material for preventing the signs of skin aging, as well as demonstrating the viability of an innovative nanoemulsified cosmetic product.Doctoral Thesis Produto cosmético sólido com Prosopis juliflora: avaliação da segurança, desenvolvimento de formulações e estudo da eficácia hidratante e anti-rugas(2019-07-31) Damasceno, Gabriel Azevedo de Brito; Ferrari, Márcio; Giordani, Raquel Brandt; ; ; ; Lima, Adley Antonini Neves de; ; Ostrosky, Elissa Arantes; ; Gamboa, Ian Castro; ; Velasco, Maria Valéria Robles;Prosopis juliflora (PJ) is an invasive plant of Brazilian Caatinga and presents compounds in its metabolic composition of interest in cosmetic products. This work aims the development of cosmetic formulations in the form of a solid core containing PJ extract that upon contact with water will form instantly a gel for single dose use. It also aims the in vitro and in vivo safety study of the extracts and the moisturizing and anti-wrinkle activities clinical efficacy. The samples were purified by centrifugal ultrafiltration and gel filtration chromatography, followed by acid hydrolysis and analysis of the monosaccharide composition by paper chromatography and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR). The fraction smaller than 3kDa was evaluated by liquid chromatography mass spectrometry (LC-MS) while the fraction greater than 3kDa by NMR. The total fraction was analyzed by an integrated NMR platform. The in vitro antioxidant activity was evaluated using different methodologies. In vitro safety assessment was performed using cytotoxicity and phototoxicity tests using colorimetric method and neutral red and MTT as vital corants. The in vivo safety evaluation was performed through the cutaneous compatibility test. A preformulation step was performed and the most suitable technique of obtaining the formulations was chosen, which were then submitted to a 90 days stability study. Finally, for the clinical evaluation of moisturizing and anti-wrinkle efficacy, the water content of the stratum corneum and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were measured before and 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 hours after application. These parameters and skin micro relief were evaluated after 30 days of daily use of the formulations. The experimental design revealed that the best extractive conditions were at 34ºC / 3,5h (PJ2). The fraction greater than 3KDa (PJ2) was characterized as an α-glucan and the fraction smaller than 3kDa presented phenolic compounds, some of which are unpublished for the species, and alkaloids. These results agree with those obtained by the integrated NMR network for the total fraction. The samples did not present cytotoxic and phototoxic effects at the concentrations tested, nor did any volunteers present cutaneous reactions. These results are an indication of safety of the raw material. In vitro antioxidant activity evaluations demonstrated the potential of PJ2 acts in different stages of the oxidative cascade. Eight formulations were delineated in the preformulation stage and three methods of obtaining the solid cores were evaluated: direct compression, molding and compression of granules obtained by wet granulation. The latter allowed the incorporation of an emollient phase in the formulation and proved to be the most suitable method to obtain the stable solid cores. After the clinical efficacy tests, it was possible to observe that the formulation added with PJ2 increased the water content of the skin within 5h after the application. In the long-term tests, there was an improvement of the water content, reduction of TEWL and improvement in the parameters of cutaneous relief. Thus, evidencing the applicability of this new form and cosmetic raw material as a moisturizing and anti-aging agent.Master Thesis Utilização do subproduto do beneficiamento do sisal (Agave sisalana Perrine): desenvolvimento de nanoemulsões cosméticas e avaliação da segurança e eficácia(2017-03-31) Barreto, Stella Maria Andrade Gomes; Ferrari, Márcio; Giordani, Raquel Brandt; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/5032750980466610; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/5782539548696465; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/2234955265649411; Rocha, Hugo Alexandre de Oliveira; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/4651814546820796; Isaac, Vera Lúcia Borges; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/4842462513285606The processing of the leaves of Agave sisalana provides fiber, with added value for the sisal industry, and the rest of the plant material, known as by-product, is thrown and generates environmental impact. Different applications have been attributed, however, there are no scientific researches that aim to use this product as a cosmetic raw material. The objective of this research was to obtain and characterize polysaccharides-enriched fraction (FrE) from the Agave sisalana by-product of, assess the safety in vitro and in vivo, as well as to evaluate the antioxidant activity in vitro, and then to develop a nanoemulsion with moisturizer effect. From the liquid portion of the by-product obtained the crude extract (EB) and two fractions resulting from extractive process. The EB and the fractions were evaluated for the presence of sugars, proteins and polyphenols. Safety was evaluated by cytotoxicity and phototoxicity in vitro assays using the colorimetric method of Neutral Red. Irritability was evaluated by the primary contact test (patch test). The antioxidant capacity was assessed using the DPPH scavenging tests and molybdenum method. Different systems were obtained by means of pseduodiagrama ternary containing, or not, 0.5% FrE. The selected formulations were submitted to preliminary stability tests and accelerated in different temperatures conditions for a period of 90 days. The moisturizing efficacy was evaluated by water content of the stratum corneum and transepidermal water loss for a period of 5 hours. The samples presented as chemical constituents, sugars, polyphenols and proteins. The FrE showed no phototoxic potential or cytotoxic, and was not irritating to skin of volunteers and can be considered an asset with antioxidant property Nanoemulsion containing 40% oil phase, 50% aqueous phase and 10% surfactants was stable for 90 days.The nanoemulsion was able to significantly increase the water content and maintain skin barrier function after 5 hours from a single application. The fraction obtained from the industrial by-product of Agave sisalana demonstrated a promising profile as raw material for cosmetic skin care with moisturizing and antioxidant capacity, together with the possibility of adding value to industrial waste, reducing the damage caused to the environment by disposing of this material.Master Thesis Desenvolvimento de emulsões contendo extrato de Kalanchoe brasiliensis Cambess e avaliação clínica da eficácia hidratante(2016-01-26) Rodrigues, Rayllan de Oliveira; Ferrari, Marcio; ; ; Gomes, Ana Paula Barreto; ; Rocha Filho, Pedro Alves da;Kalanchoe brasiliensis Cambess specie, belonging to the Crassulaceae family, presents flavonoids, polysaccharides and ascorbic acid in its chemical composition. These compounds are generally used in cosmetics formulations as antioxidants, moisturizers and anti-aging properties. This research aimed to development moisturizing emulsions add or not with hydroethanolic extract of the Kalanchoe brasiliensis leaves and evaluated its moisturizing clinical efficacy. Formulations have been developed with different concentrations of Sodium Acrylates/ Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer (and) Hydrogenated Polydecene (and) Lauryl Glucoside (Novemer™EC-2 polymer), incorporated to Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (Carbopol® Ultrez-20). The formulations were added or not with plant extract 0.5% (w/w) and subjected to accelerated stability tests. In accelerated stability study, the samples were stored at different temperatures for 90 days. The organoleptic characteristics, pH and rheological behavior were evaluated. The formulation containing 3.0% Novemer™EC-2 and 0.4% Carbopol® Ultrez-20 added with hydroethanolic extract of K. brasiliensis 0.5% was considered stable. Moisturizing clinical efficacy was evaluated by capacitance and transepidermal water loss methodologies. The formulation containing extract compared to vehicle promoted increase significantly statistical of the water content of the stractum corneum and decrease of transepidermal water loss, promoting barrier effect until five hours after single application of the formulation. The emulsion developed with 0.5% of hydroethanolic extract of K. brasiliensis leaves presented moisturizing efficacy acting possibly by occlusion and humectation mechanisms, demonstrating potential use as a moisturizing cosmetic product.Master Thesis Desenvolvimento e caracterização de nanoemulsões cosméticas contendo extrato de Opuntia ficus-indica L. Mill e avaliação in vivo da eficácia hidratante(Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte, 2015-03-12) Ribeiro, Renato César de Azevedo; Ferrari, Márcio; Veríssimo, Lourena Mafra; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/9173400981540256; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/5782539548696465; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/7437846439578166; Egito, Eryvaldo Sócrates Tabosa do; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/6907806915889763; Campos, Patrícia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia; ; http://lattes.cnpq.br/1103573381816124Nanoemulsions are emulsified systems, characterized for reduced droplet size (50- 500nm), which the main characteristic are kinect stability and thermodynamic instability. These are promising systems on cosmetic area due to their droplet size that provide different advantages when compared to conventional systems, among others, larger surface area and better permeability. The Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill is a plant cultivated on Caatinga Brazilian biome, which has great socioeconomic importance to region. This plant shows carbohydrates utilized for cosmetic industry as moisturizing active in their chemical composition. The aim of study was to develop, characterize, evaluate stability and moisturizing efficacy of cosmetic nanoemulsions added to Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill extract. Nanoemulsions preparation was made using a low energy method. Different nanoemulsions were formulated varying the ratio of oil, water and surfactant phases beyond xanthan gum (0.5% e 1%) and Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill hydroglycolic extract addition on 1% and 3%. Obtained nanoemulsions were submitted to preliminary and accelerated stability tests. The evaluated parameters monitored were: macroscopic aspect, pH value, droplet size, zeta potential and polydispersion index, during 60 days on different temperatures. Stable formulations were submitted to moisturizing efficacy assessment by capacitance and transepidermal water loss methodologies during 5 hours. Stable samples were white and showed homogeneous and fluid aspect, pH value was inside ideal range (4,5-6,0) to topical application and droplet size under 200nm characterizing these system as nanoemulsions. Developed nanoemulsions did not decrease transepidermal water loss, however increased the water content on stratum corneum, highlighting the nanoemulsions containing 0.5% of xanthan gum and 1% of hydroglycolic extract. This work presents cosmetic moisturizing nanoemulsions composed to vegetal raw material from Brazilian Caatinga with potential to be used on cosmetic area.
