Estudo de estabilidade preliminar de formulações cosméticas acrescidas de lipase

Abstract

The implementation of biotechnology in the cosmetic industry has generated significant impacts, allowing for the discovery of new active ingredients and their incorporation into various formulations. Lipases, carboxylesterases that hydrolyze long-chain acylglycerols, are widely applied in cosmetics, mainly in products for skin and hair, such as shampoos and gels, due to their impurity-removal capability. Additionally, lipases are used in products for cellulite treatment because of their lipolytic action. Stability studies play a fundamental role in the development of cosmetics, as they evaluate the behavior of formulations under different conditions, providing data on their response to external influences. The aim of this work was to obtain the enzyme lipase through the cultivation of Aspergillus terreus, incorporate it into cosmetic formulations, and conduct preliminary stability tests over 15 days. The lipolytic activity of the lipase was quantified using p-nitrophenyl palmitate, with analysis performed on a microplate spectrophotometer. The results demonstrated the feasibility of using coconut flour as a substrate for lipase production, resulting in an aqueous crude extract with a lipolytic activity of 55U/ml. The partial purification process using 60% ethanol increased the enzymatic activity to 555.55U/ml. The stability of the cosmetic formulations was evaluated through various tests. Formulations F1a, F1b, F3a, and F3b were stable, while F2a and F2b showed instabilities and were discarded. No enzymatic activity was detected in the formulations, possibly due to limitations in the analysis process, such as the agitation needed for sample dilution and the requirement to neutralize the creams' turbidity. The research highlighted the complexity in developing cosmetic systems containing active enzymes, underlining the importance of careful formulation and analytical protocols for the samples under study.