Covering the skincare routine using a multifunctional product: development of facial booster microemulsion using the box- behnken design

Abstract

The international cosmetic market has been highlighted for the production and commercialization of multifunctional products, characterized by incorporation of different active ingredients. Then, the development of microemulsions (ME) stands out due to its ability to deliver different active ingredients to obtain properties as moisturizing, photoprotective and antioxidant. Based on this, the aim of this study was to produce and characterize a multifunctional facial booster (MFB) based on a linseed oil ME containing vitamin E, hyaluronic acid (HA), and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (PBSA) by the Box-Benhken experimental design (BBD). The concentrations of the active ingredients were defined, based on the BBD results of antioxidant activity, sun protector factor (SPF) and occlusivity. The MFB was characterized by its antioxidant activity, occlusivity, SPF and spreadability in vitro. In addition, MFB was physicochemically characterized by hydrodynamic droplet size distribution, polydispersity index (PdI) and pH. The BBD proposed a MFB composed by HA 5 %, vitamin E 5 % and PBSA 7.5 %, that showed an antioxidant activity, SPF, occlusivity and spreadability of 8.02 ± 1.20 %, 12.65 ± 1.33, 27.65 ± 1.67 % and 2923 ± 167 mm², respectively. These results represent an effective radical scavenging, photoprotection, water loss inhibition and adequate spreadability. Moreover, MFB showed a droplet size, PdI and pH of 34.74 ± 0.14 nm, 0.184 ± 0.02, 7.14 ± 0.02, respectively. The MFB showed physicochemical characteristics suitable for microemulsion systems and presented suitable stability for 90 days. Finally, the MFB was successfully produced and stands itself as a promising multifunctional cosmetic product.